Patching Smaller Holes in Sheetrock
Most drywall repairs often pose the threat of more time spent on the job than we would like. And more times than not, making the repair requires more tools and materials than you may have on your work vehicle. Here is a way to save a few steps next time you’re fixing smaller holes in sheetrock. By using this approach you eliminate the need for any backing, screws, or joint tape. Remember, this type of patch is best used on holes smaller than 6” x 6” in size. — Ron Franklin, Sacramento, CA
1. Cut a piece of sheetrock that overlaps the hole on all sides by approximately
1-1/2” to 2”. Now mark the size of the hole on two sides of your piece of sheetrock.
2. Now score the back of the piece of sheetrock with a sharp utility knife. This creates an outline for the piece that will fit into the hole. Again, with your knife, continue to score these outside edges.
3. When you’ve done this, carefully break the sheetrock along the four sides and peel these pieces of rock off the paper which is left on the face of the sheetrock.
4. Once you have created a patch for your hole, check to be sure it will fit snugly into place.
5. Next, with either a ready mixed all-purpose joint compound, or 20 to 40 minute “hot mud”, generously apply mud to the edges of the hole and to the edges and backside of the paper on your patch.
6. Now place the patch carefully into the hole and with a 4” to 6” putty knife trowel the paper facing on the sheetrock to complete your patch. By using a “hot mud” for your patch you can also use it for topping the patch as well. This allows you to match any texturing on the existing wall and paint your surfaces the same day.
While photographing workers of Star Wallcovering Company in Rancho Cordova, California PaintPRO photographer, Barbara Souza, was quick to pick up on the use of a small piece of carpet which is used for rapping vinyl around outside edges. Thanks to a great pose by Mick Stahl, small tricks-of-the-trade, like this one, are invaluable to maintain professional results in every application.
—Star Wallcovering Company, Granite Bay, CA
Often the general rule is to cut-in or brush around doors and window casements prior to rolling on a coat of paint. However, next time you are faced with the task of brushing around standard face frames on enameled doors or windows, try something new. With the use of your roller, you can often cut-in to the side of these frames much quicker with a slight turn of your roller frame. In either an upward or downward direction simply angle the roller a little out as you roll along the edge of the casing. (See photo — red arrow shows direction of stroke, blue arrow shows rotation) By forcing your roller to roll along the edge while angled slightly away from the casing you can coat the side of the frame and not leave excess paint on the face of the frame. You’re actually forcing the paint into the corner because the roller is not running straight up or down. For achieving the best results with this technique use a quality 3/4” inch lambswool or 50/50 blend roller sleeve. Casings that are 5/8” to 3/4” deep offer the best results with this technique.
Lastly, make a quick pass down the sides of the casing with an angular brush to lay off your material. You’ve just saved valuable time with your roller versus cutting-in to all those casings with a brush.
This technique is best used when the same color is applied to walls and casings. This makes the transition from a flat wall to enameled surfaces less noticeable. And because the outside edge of the casing normally casts a shadow upon itself, applying a flatwall or lo-sheen paint to this outside edge is not noticeable and maintains a professional appearance.