PaintPRO Vol 1, No 1

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Other articles in this issue:
Quality Architectural Paints
Interior Wood Stains
Working with Vinyl Wallcovering
Faux Crackle Finish
Contractor Profile: Alvin Willmett
Ladder Safety
Paint Product News
Painting Tips
Q & A
PaintPRO Archives

Contractor Q & A

Here PaintPRO offers an open forum for any comments, questions, ideas or complaints that you would like share with PaintPRO readers. Simply jot down those thoughts and drop them in the mail to us. We might just publish them in our next issue!

Q. “I live in a rural town outside Boise, Idaho and finding good information on new products that can help me in my business is difficult. Where can I go to find valuable product information”?

A. If you have access to the internet, wait for the January issue of PaintPRO. There you will find a column called the “Painter’s Web” and listed there are web sites that can give you great information on the latest products and services. Here too, you can download product information and order materials as well. Good Luck!

Q. I constantly have problems while spraying material through my airless. My gun doesn’t spray a nice even fan of material and leaves heavy material lines on the surface. Got any suggestions?

A. Normally that problem is referred to as “fingering” and can be resolved a couple different ways. Always remember to strain the material you will be pumping through your airless before you start spraying. This removes smaller particles in the paint that can cause blockage and really frustrate you if you’re not using a reversible tip. Make sure the screens in your pump and gun are clean before use, and also clean your equipment well after every use. If you are spraying heavy materials you may also consider a larger tip and increasing the pressure. If your pump is too small, that might also be a part of the fingering problem. Lastly, remember that paint is rough on spray-tips and generally speaking, a tip is only good for about 30 to 40 gallons of paint. (Once your tip is worn out, you’re going to find yourself using more material for a job than would otherwise be necessary. Also known as lost profit).

Q. “I’m constantly confronted with the problem of not knowing where to dispose of dirty thinner. What do I do”?

A. Although we do not recommend storing flammable materials in or around your shop, painters do have this problem to deal with. If your shop offers a safe environment for flammables and that area is also posted with OSHA approved “Flammable Liquids” signs, store that dirty thinner in closed containers. If left alone for a few months, all of the solids settle to the bottom. You are then left with good clear thinner at the top which you can poor off and use for first and second rinses of brushes or airless equipment. The solids that remain in your storage containers should be allowed to dry completely before discarding (check with your local sanitation department for proper disposal). Metal 5 gallon containers with lids are a good container for storing dirty thinner and can be discarded properly along with the dried solids.

Q. “I’ve got the interiors of a 6-unit apartment complex to paint this winter but all of the cabinetry and kitchen, bath and laundry walls are a high gloss oil based enamel. I’m not to excited about the prep work on these surfaces. Could you help me out”?

A. There are some great products on the market that can save you substantial time in preparation of these surfaces for repainting. Two products that come to mind are Kelly-Moore’s Uni-Prime and another made by Zinsser which is called 1-2-3. Both products bond extremely well to these types of surfaces and eliminate the need for any sanding. Remember, don’t forget to wash all surfaces with a suitable cleanser first.

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